06 January 2024

Mexico City Centro Historico

A walking tour brought us up to speed on the founding of Mexico City ("CDMX") as the city-state of the Mexica's Tenochtitlan. Originally built on an expanded island in the middle of a lake, the city was quite grand with palaces and temples amidst a network of canals. In the Templo Mayor 13th century ruins next to the cathedral, there is evidence of human sacrifice in the mythology and practices of the Aztecs, a fierce warrior group. 

In the 1500s, Hernan Cortés and the Spanish conquerors, with the help of indigenous groups seeking power themselves, defeated the Aztecs and the city was razed. The lakebed was drained to build out the city, a decision that has consequences today for sinking ground and water shortages amidst antiquated plumbing. 

At an elevation of 7,349 ft, Mexico City is estimated to be sinking up to 20 inches a year in some places. The metropolitan cathedral, built by the Spanish on top of ancient Aztec ruins, and other buildings downtown are visibly uneven. Frequent earthquakes and a nearby active volcano create other geographic risks. 

Yet CDMX area is home to 22 million people. The downtown has been revitalized and its zocálo has hosted popular concerts and events as the downtown with its national palace, historic buildings, and wide boulevards handle a large volume of pedestrians.

Nearby is the Palacio des Belles Artes whose second floor exhibits many famous murals including Diego Rivera's "Man, Controller of the Universe". It was first commissioned for Rockefeller Center but when Diego Rivera refused to paint out Lenin's face for its capitalistic patron, it was destroyed and recommissioned in Mexico City.