Lourdes, France

Lourdes is an historic town in the Pyrenean foothills and a worldwide spiritual center. In 778, Charlemagne laid siege to the fortress built on a high rocky outcropping. The town would be the site of many conflicts through the centuries, even at one time belonging to Britain. In 1858, a 14-year old peasant girl named Bernadette saw an apparition in the shallow cave next to the river. The apparition (later believed by the local priests to be the immaculate conception) delivered a message to build a church. Lourdes is the second most visited city in France after Paris, attracting 5 million visitors annually, many seeking prayer and healing.

Cirque de Gavarnie

A few kilometers from the end of the trek is a spectacular steep-walled semicircular basin of rock with a waterfall dropping several thousand feet.

Day Eight - Baysellance to Gavarnie

We left the highest hut in the Pyrenees at 8:00 am. A light rain came down but I didn't care. This is our last full day of hiking and it's time to proceed to civilization, including hot showers. The hut was crowded last night with several large groups plus many campers chased inside by the rain. Every bunk was taken. I slept on a 3-person bunk between Dan and another man. Luckily it was a relatively quiet night in the dorm room. After the usual morning bowl of cafe au lait, accompanied by pound cake and leftover bread with butter and jam, it was time to hit the trail. We descended 4,500' crossing snowfields, some with precarious snow bridges hollowed by warming temperatures. With waterfalls converging everywhere, we are at the headwaters of the river flowing into the valley leading down to Gavarnie, and ultimately Lourdes. When I think of the Pyrenees, I will think of hearty blue daffodils set in green meadows, granite ridges and sparkling blue lakes, all above the clouds.

CB at Refuge Oulettes

I wear my warm lightweight down jacket everywhere after arriving at the hut. There are no showers at most of the high refuges but there is a cold water basin which is fine, for a while anyway!

Dan at Refuge Oulettes

Happy to have arrived after climbing up nearly 4000 ft over two cols and descending nearly 2000 ft to get to the refuge.

Day Seven Refuge Oulettes to Baysellance

The rain is back but the view from the bunk room is tremendous looking up the meadow and glacial moraine to one of the last large glaciers in the Pyrenees.

Day Six - Refuge Wallon to Refuge Oulettes

Two Spanish hikers we met on the trail and at dinner the prior evening. Augustin is also a marathon runner, and even their walking pace was incredibly fast.

White dairy cows on the high meadow

These cows are the true workers of the Pyrenees producing a flavorful local cheese.