World Heritage Sight, Bouddhanath Stupa

Circling Bouddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Relaxing in the courtyard with local lager

Trek preparations in Kathmandu

Our first day landed during the five day holiday in Nepal called Tihar. Today it honored dogs, and tomorrow, cows as well as the Hindu Goddess of Wealth. Our small hotel, the Ambassador Garden Home, is an oasis in the jam-packed Thamel district in Kathmandu. Decorated with festival lights, the area is a maelstrom of motorcycles, cars, tuk-tuks, and pedestrians each trying to negotiate narrow lanes lined with every shop imaginable but sometimes hidden behind street rubble. Signs say to ignore beggars and aggressive hawkers. But there are no street signs or landmarks. It took two times before we found the right ATM and the storefront where the trekking permit (ACAP) and ID card (TIMS) for Annapurna trekking could be obtained. (3900 rps pp). And they couldn't have been closer to the hotel! All in all not too bad for a first day in an exotic city. We had simple fresh-prepared chicken and vegetable curry over a steaming plate of rice for dinner with a tall local beer called Gorkha. The staff here are charming from the proprietor with the portrait of his grandfather, an earlier ambassador to China, to the young porter studying his english language book during the quiet moments but quick with the traditional greeting of namaste and a bright white smile. We celebrated the owner's two little pug dogs adorned with jackets and orange garlands. They seemed especially happy today.

First stop - Himalayas

We're on our way to Kathmandu, and then starting this weekend, the Annapurna Circuit. The circuit is a classic "teahouse trek" with rustic lodges to stay along the entire route in the Himalayas of north-central Nepal. Circling 8,000 meter peaks, the 3-week trek goes counter-clockwise from Besisahar to Nayapul reaching its high point at 17,769 feet at Thorung La pass, one of the highest trekking passes in the world. The trek passes Buddhist villages and Hindu holy sites. Toward the end of the circuit, we will cut over to the trail to Annapurna Base Camp (aka Annapurna Sanctuary) which adds about a week before heading to Pokhara, the third largest city in Nepal.