Chame to Upper Pisang el 10,700 ft
We continue the march to go over the highest trekking pass in the world. Slowly. Geography is changing as we emerge from the rocky gorge to pine trees in a high altitude arid environment. It's like a scene from Bonanza but with Tibetan-Nepalis riding fast ponies down the dusty trail with scarves wrapped around their heads. In the afternoon I put on my rain shell as the cold wind picked up. We climbed a flight of stone steps to get to a lodge 300 ft above with great views of Annapurna II. I felt great with a pot of lemon tea until later when I succumbed to the same intestinal issues described by others. Immodium stopped the symptoms but it was the antibiotics prescribed by the travel clinic which neatly solved the problem.
Pisang to Manang el 11,614 ft
I was a little weak walking to Manang but we chose the valley route, a gentle hike on a wide path. We stayed in Manang two extra days for acclimatization. Awoke to a sunny morning, perfect for climbing up to see the lama who lives with his granddaughter in a monastery built into the side of a cliff 1800 ft up a rocky ridge. Passing chortens and prayer flags, the views were magnificent with Annapurna III and II as standouts. An avalanche roared down the Gangapurna Glacier across the valley. The 94-year old lama was circling the chorten with prayer beads when we arrived. He beckoned us inside the low- ceiling dwelling for the puja, a blessing for a safe passage over Thorong La Pass. The lama placed a thread necklace around my neck repeating the meditative mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum. He said he's 94-years old, a lucky year to cross the pass. Dan came next and he touched both sides of Dan's bearded face and looked him in the eye. A kind man with gentle eyes he told us about meeting the Dalai Lama in India. I hit my head on a low beam on the way out of the cliff dwelling. I figure the path to enlightenment is not easy.
We were down in the village for lunch: vegetable curry and rice with a Sprite. Two runaway donkeys careened down the rocky lane in front of the muddy storefronts. When the sun goes down, Manang gets really cold. I was very happy inside my Marmot mummy bag rated to 15 degrees F.
