Staying cool at Palolem beach, Goa

South Goan Beach Shacks

Wagah border sign, outside Amritsar

Approximately 1.1+ billion people call India home.

Golden Temple at night, Amritsar

Sikh Golden Temple, Amritsar

To enter the golden temple complex, we removed our shoes and socks, rinsed our feet, covered our head, and proceeded to walk around the huge square clockwise. Sikh pilgrims bath in the holy, tranquil water that surrounds the main shrine where the revered text of scriptures are kept. An ancient warrior people, the Sikhs are represented by a saffron dagger, and are also known by the turban worn by the men. They believe in equality of all people, unlike the old caste system, including equal treatment of men and women. No one goes hungry in Amritsar because of the huge community kitchen staffed by volunteers serving food 24/7.

Hill tribesmen from MP region

Dancers off-stage, Shimla

Viceregal Lodge, Shimla

The entire Indian subcontinent was ruled in the hot summer months from the Viceroy's lodge built 1888 in the cool foothills of the Himalayas. Many historic events happened in the Victorian lodge especially related to the independence of India from Britain, including in 1947 the partition of India, Pakistan, and East Pakistan (now Bangladesh).

India Gate, Delhi

A symbol of both New Delhi, the capital, and India, India Gate honors the soldiers who died during WWI and subsequent wars. New Delhi feels opulent compared to other parts of India seen so far, and recently hosted the Commonwealth Games with athletes from all over the world. Our journey by rail across Northern India continues to the hill station of Shimla tomorrow.

Taj Mahal, Agra

Emperor Shah Jahan constructed the Taj Mahal as a symbol of eternal love in 1632, shortly after his third wife died while bearing his 14th child. The Taj Mahal expands on design traditions of Persian and Mughal architecture with the use of a translucent white marble inlaid with semi-precious stones.

White cow

Sacred cows wander many streets at their leisure. Last night I saw one inside a pajama store.

Ghats of Varanasi

Ghats are stairways that lead down to water. The holy city of Varanasi has 84 ghats on the sacred Ganges river which is fed by glaciers from the Himalayas. We toured the ghats by boat, each having a separate purpose such as praying, bathing, washing clothes, cremation and other purposes. As Hindu pilgrims welcomed the sunrise with singing and ceremony, the hazy sun rose bathing the city in a soft glow.

Lama speaking under bodhi tree with high security

Place of Enlightenment, Bodh Gaya

Buddha, the enlightened one, attained his enlightenment under the bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya on the eastern plains of India. This important stupa and garden was filled with monks and followers listening to one of the high Tibetan lamas. A mysterious man handed me two leaves that had fallen from the bodhi tree, fourth generation from the original, and disappeared.

Rickshaw

Imported originally from Shanghai, the man-pulled rickshaw is quickly becoming something of the past. Kolkata is the only city in India to allow man-pulled rickshaws, with the auto rickshaw powered by a small engine much more popular. The men who pull the rickshaws mainly come from one village, and are supposed to now wear shoes but many still prefer bare feet.

Victoria Memorial, Kolkata

Kolkata (Calcutta) was once the British capital of India. With white marble similarly used in the Taj Mahal, the huge dome and building with a surrounding park has a grand statue of Queen Victoria, empress of India (1837-1901) in front.

Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu valley

Founded as early as third century B.C., Patan City expanded throughout history as a source of religious and political power, and a center for arts and crafts including metallic and stone carving statue.

Buddha-II, Pathan Museum, Kathmandu

World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara

The pagoda is a huge Buddhist stupa built on top of a narrow ridge above Phewa lake. Among at least 80 pagodas built around the world under the guidance of a Buddhist monk from Japan, the shrine also shows off the entire Annapurna range and is dedicated to the search for world peace.

Canoeing to the trail up to Peace Pagoda

Post-trek relaxing in Pokhara Lakeside

Annapurna South Base Camp el 13,550 ft

The major peaks encircle us in this spot, the very heart of the Annapurna range. Part of mountaineering history, ABC also honors some world-class climbers who perished on the difficult and dangerous climbing routes. Looking up at Annapurna South, you can barely detect where climbing camps could be placed as the terrain is so severe with huge glaciers and steep rock and ice walls. Climbing on Fish Tail Peak is not permitted as the mountain is sacred to the local people.
We spent hours up here in awe of the mountains but it was time to start going down. A sharp wind suddenly picked up blowing lots of sand, and reminding me not to linger too long. Going back was much easier, again as the air grew thicker, we made it all the way back to Himalaya lodge el 9,432 ft. Kerosene-fired popcorn and pizza with Everest beer for dinner to celebrate.

Close up of Fish Tail peak, Machhapuchhare Base Camp el 12,139 ft

Right underneath the main Annapurna peaks we've been hiking around for the past few weeks, the ridges, glaciers, and avalanche gullies are visible to the naked eye. It is very cold here. Contrary to the previous picture of hikers in shorts, we will wear almost every piece of clothing tonight in the MBC lodge. The plan is to hike from MBC early in the morning two additional hours up to Annapurna Base Camp, our final destination before turning around and walking out the way we came in. We walked from a bamboo jungle up and down along the side of a gorge the last two days, gradually increasing elevation to the alpine zone. It's a rigorous walk but our previous acclimatization is really helping as no ill effects from altitude.

Peeling delicious small potatoes at base camp

Basking in afternoon sun, Deurali el 10,597 ft

Continuing toward Annapurna Base Camp, we've met interesting hikers from New Zealand, Holland and Sweden. Pictured below are a Dutch pediatrician and nurse who went trekking after a philanthropic medical mission to a remote village treating 1000 kids over seven days. The cause of some of medical issues had to do with lack of education around hygiene to reduce chance of encounter with bad bacteria and proper nutrition, eg eating fruit and vegetables.

On way to Annapurna South Base Camp, Sinuwa el 7,677 ft

Above the clouds, morning in Tadapani el 8,847 ft

A group of gray langur monkeys were swinging high in the tree tops with the rising sun filtering through the bamboo and rhododendrum forest about 200 feet below this spot.

Travel Diary, Nov 16-22

Manang to Yak Kharka el 13,182 ft
Our pace slowed considerably at this altitude but the walk itself is not too demanding. We leave the Marsygandi valley behind. Lodging for the night is above a small village and the room frightfully cold. There is no water except for the large jug in the bathroom used to flush the porcelain earth-level toilet. The dining room is warmer with a smoky fire, hot food, and many trekkers.
Yak Kharka to Throng Pedi el 14,598 ft
This is the final approach to base camp lodge for the high pass crossing the next day. The trail made steady progress up the rocky alpine landscape with occasional yaks grazing on scrub bushes. In 3 hours at 10:30 am we were at our destination for the night, part of the plan to keep elevation gains modest to prevent altitude mountain sickness. We are in fact higher than Mt Whitney and Mt Rainier at this point.
Throng Pedi to high pass Thorong La el 17,769 ft down to Muktinath el 12,172 ft
I awoke from a deep sleep at 4 am to prepare for a 5 am departure. The Nalgene bottle filled with hot water at the bottom of my sleeping bag really warmed me up inside the dreary cold room. The French hikers on either side of us left at least an hour earlier but everyone else left shortly after we did. With headlamps lit, we slowly made our way into the cold night moving up steep switchbacks to gain a quick 1000 ft in the first hour. I kept thinking of the expression, "it is coldest before the dawn." (It was.) I layered on my down jacket at High Camp lodge with the increasingly colder temperatures at even higher altitude. Well it had been sunny nearly every day of the trek so I was not too surprised when it started to snow. The trail moderated slightly as we traversed a glacial moraine. A team of donkeys passed, the critical supply chain for Manang. The landscape was barren like the moon, huge icefields emerging above us through the fog. In four hours, we were celebrating on top of the pass with hot tea served from the highest tea shack in the world, and increasing snow. Time to go down the other side - a little icy in some places but pretty stable. Hours later we stopped for noodle soup, and after descending continuously, we finally reached Muktinath and its 500-year old monastery. A monk let us in at the top of the ample grounds sprawling among poplar trees and festooned by prayer flags on the rocks above. This is an important pilgrimage sight for Buddhists and Hindus, and the serenity of the place was audible. That night we stayed at a Tibetan family's lodge who lit a charcoal fire underneath the long table covered with thick yak hair blankets.
Muktinath to Kagbeni el 9,186 ft
Pancakes, porridge and milk coffee, and I was ready to tackle the 3,000 ft descent to the next village. This side of the pass is plagued by harsh winds and dust that start with precision mid-morning. With a bandana wrapped around my face, I pressed into the wind down to the arid border of the restricted Mustang region of Nepal. Dan chose the lodge above the "German bakery" and sure enough there was a Nepali woman making homemade apple pies and crumbles inside.
Kageni to Jomoson el 8,891 ft
Following the river bank, we easily made the 3-hour walk to Jomoson before the winds started up. Then we needed to decide whether to bus down to Tatopani (hot springs!) or walk part of the way through the apple capital of Marpha. But after the time it took to figure whether there were any buses with available seats the horrendous wind started up again. The buses were full because the air flights were cancelled due to weather. So after starting to walk into the teeth of the wind, Dan had a better thought - let's stay in Jomoson, where the crowded buses start, and get the first one in the morning.
Jomoson to Tatopani el 3,904 ft
The bus blared Nepali music from its speakers. It picked up and dropped off all the village characters from apple sellers to farmers to tourists as it carefully descended 5,000 ft down a crude track above the river. The air got thicker and my sinuses cleared as we arrived in a tropical jungle worthy of an additional rest day.

Continuing descent from Muktinath toward Jharkot el 11,647 ft

Muktinath pagoda-style temple el 12,172 ft, Mustang side of pass

Thorong-La Pass, highest point el 17,769 ft

About 17,000 ft, shortly before the high pass

Friendly Tibetan-Nepali woman on way to Yak Kharka el 13,182 ft

Travel Diary, Nov 12-15

Chame to Upper Pisang el 10,700 ft
We continue the march to go over the highest trekking pass in the world. Slowly. Geography is changing as we emerge from the rocky gorge to pine trees in a high altitude arid environment. It's like a scene from Bonanza but with Tibetan-Nepalis riding fast ponies down the dusty trail with scarves wrapped around their heads. In the afternoon I put on my rain shell as the cold wind picked up. We climbed a flight of stone steps to get to a lodge 300 ft above with great views of Annapurna II. I felt great with a pot of lemon tea until later when I succumbed to the same intestinal issues described by others. Immodium stopped the symptoms but it was the antibiotics prescribed by the travel clinic which neatly solved the problem.
Pisang to Manang el 11,614 ft
I was a little weak walking to Manang but we chose the valley route, a gentle hike on a wide path. We stayed in Manang two extra days for acclimatization. Awoke to a sunny morning, perfect for climbing up to see the lama who lives with his granddaughter in a monastery built into the side of a cliff 1800 ft up a rocky ridge. Passing chortens and prayer flags, the views were magnificent with Annapurna III and II as standouts. An avalanche roared down the Gangapurna Glacier across the valley. The 94-year old lama was circling the chorten with prayer beads when we arrived. He beckoned us inside the low- ceiling dwelling for the puja, a blessing for a safe passage over Thorong La Pass. The lama placed a thread necklace around my neck repeating the meditative mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum. He said he's 94-years old, a lucky year to cross the pass. Dan came next and he touched both sides of Dan's bearded face and looked him in the eye. A kind man with gentle eyes he told us about meeting the Dalai Lama in India. I hit my head on a low beam on the way out of the cliff dwelling. I figure the path to enlightenment is not easy.
We were down in the village for lunch: vegetable curry and rice with a Sprite. Two runaway donkeys careened down the rocky lane in front of the muddy storefronts. When the sun goes down, Manang gets really cold. I was very happy inside my Marmot mummy bag rated to 15 degrees F.

At cliff-side monastery above Manang

Travel Diary, Nov 9-11

Chamje to Dharapani el 6500 ft
Last night I lushed out on small boiled potatoes for dinner, not wanting to get too exotic with pizza made with yak cheese or other westernized dishes. With a growing number of stomach issues with other hikers, I figure it's best to go with the basics: beer and potatoes! However the German women I was sitting next to were surprised I did not peel the skin. I didn't eat the skin after that. The Nepalis eat dal baht for lunch and dinner, a nutritious meal of a mound of rice, a bowl of lentils poured over the rice, and curried vegetables - a meal I would have with more frequency too in the days ahead.
The sky was clear when we woke but quickly turned partly cloudy. The towns are supplied by teams of donkeys that pass thru a very narrow main street, just a foot or two from the entrance to the teahouses. Like the old West, it's better to have the upstairs room, less mud, dust and foul smells. Huge red and pink poinsetta trees adorned some houses above the roaring glacial river. Baby goats played next to the trail, and numerous chickens and chicks worked hard to find something edible on the sandy trail. With a 3-hr uphill walk to Tal, we stopped for vegetable egg fried potatoes next to spectacular waterfalls. After that nice break, it turned cold and windy for the last few hours to our lodge next to the river. This was after almost staying in a cold dark room earlier on the trail. While all the lodges are now getting colder and even more rustic, we are finding there are big differences between them relative to location and comfort. I had a warm trickle from the spigot to wash up because I could not figure out how the shower was supposed to work. In the meantime standing naked on a wet concrete floor I was freezing so I made it fast, dried off with my one square foot towel and dove into my sleeping bag.
Dharapani to Chame el 8760 ft
Awoke to a crystal clear and crisp day. I discovered a family of bed bugs had part of my bottom for dinner at some earlier point on the trip. Benadryl relieved the itching and helped me sleep so much that I did not hear the alarm. Dan brought up the milk coffee and fried eggs. Again I was back to normal and ready for the grueling climb up from the river. Even the bug bites abated quickly.
After sandy switchbacks again with donkeys, tremendous mountain views appeared back to the east. A huge number of hikers suddenly appeared on the trail, many large French hiking groups. We
met a nice man from Spain named Josen, living in Palo Alto. The way passed quickly. We walked by Bagarchap, 15 years to the day that a huge landslide buried the village after 72 hours of rain and coincidentally when Dan and I were last in Nepal in the Everest region.
Dan ordered tuna noodle for lunch to supplement protein which is just coming from eggs, peanuts, and beans at this point. Again clouds moved in for the afternoon and temperatures dropped by 15 degrees. But the trail ahead was a pleasant high traverse and we found a cute cabin for the night and rest day tomorrow :)
I felt a cold coming on but rest was all I needed. We did laundry, charged batteries, and found a cyber cafe with a finicky server under a tin roof.

On way to Chame

Travel Diary, Nov 6-8

We left Kathmandu this morning in a taxi for the 5-hr+ journey to the start of Annapurna Circuit at Besisahar el 2700 ft. Road infrastructure is stressed by lack of development and geography which in central Nepal is steep mountain valleys and winding crumbling roads. I was tossed around in the back seat, no seat belt. Basically I turned a blind eye to buses, trucks and pedestrians inches away from our speedy Toyota which was navigated like Nascar by our driver in full concentration. Glimpses of the Himalayas appeared on the way. OMG, we're circumnavigating those giants! The ride took longer than expected due to the Dewali holidays with kids singing and dancing at various checkpoints the closer we got. They held a rope across the road and for a few rupees donation we could pass. After getting dropped at the "end of the main road", we wandered down to the colorful concrete Mongolian Hotel. I was happy it looked newer than the others. I had a warm shower and tried not to unpack my backpack. At dinner we met two other pairs of hikers from New Zealand and Germany, each with one person suffering from intestinal issues already. I noticed mosquitos and cockroaches when I woke in the middle of the night. Dan broke out our sleeping bags which we'd use for the remainder of the trek. The next morning we caught a heavy duty jeep with hikers from China and Japan to go up to Bhulbhule in about 45 minutes where the trail starts.
The rocky trail along the Kali Gandaki river has been a vital trade route in the Marsyangdi valley for centuries and later made famous by the French expedition to Annapurna I led by Maurice Herzog in 1950. We crossed suspension bridges, traipsed along steep terraced rice and millet fields, and through small villages with homes made of tin roofs and dirt floors. Kids are everywhere. Everyone it seems has a cheerful "namaste!" despite the fact they may be carrying a heavy load or otherwise leading a harsh life. Women in red colorful clothing dot the fields.
There are a few other independent trekkers like ourselves but mainly we are seeing groups with guides and porters. In the afternoon we climbed 1200 ft with the sun blasting at our backs. Running short on bottled water we pressed on until I needed to rest at a shady spot off the trail. A little further up, I ordered a fried egg sandwich on chapati bread (like naan) and immediately felt better. That evening in our teahouse lodge the villagers serenaded the guests to a repetitive drumbeat as the Dewali holidays came to an end. Dan and I were very popular with the children who were excited to practice their growing English skills. I learned then that while some kids ask for sweets or a pen, most are happy to be asked "how are you?" which they respond with "fine, how are you?" and a proud smile.
Bahundandra el 4298 ft to Chamje el 4701 ft
We are on the trail by 7 am to beat the heat. The valley became narrower as the river roared past carving smooth and deep gorges. After a steep descent the trail became undulating and about 2 hrs later we took a mango juice and water break with our new friend from Shanghai. The sun has risen over the valley now and we are taking better care to drink and snack more frequently to prevent overheating. Dan brought over two pounds of trail mix - worth its weight in gold. Soon enough we arrived at our timber lodge at the far edge of the village. I took a hot solar-powered shower and hung my sweaty clothes on rusty nails around our corner room. The sun went behind the ridge and the room cooled quickly with the furious river rushing by below us.

Suspension bridge on way to Bahundandra

Day One: Hiking above Kali Gandaki River, Annapurna Circuit

World Heritage Sight, Bouddhanath Stupa

Circling Bouddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Relaxing in the courtyard with local lager

Trek preparations in Kathmandu

Our first day landed during the five day holiday in Nepal called Tihar. Today it honored dogs, and tomorrow, cows as well as the Hindu Goddess of Wealth. Our small hotel, the Ambassador Garden Home, is an oasis in the jam-packed Thamel district in Kathmandu. Decorated with festival lights, the area is a maelstrom of motorcycles, cars, tuk-tuks, and pedestrians each trying to negotiate narrow lanes lined with every shop imaginable but sometimes hidden behind street rubble. Signs say to ignore beggars and aggressive hawkers. But there are no street signs or landmarks. It took two times before we found the right ATM and the storefront where the trekking permit (ACAP) and ID card (TIMS) for Annapurna trekking could be obtained. (3900 rps pp). And they couldn't have been closer to the hotel! All in all not too bad for a first day in an exotic city. We had simple fresh-prepared chicken and vegetable curry over a steaming plate of rice for dinner with a tall local beer called Gorkha. The staff here are charming from the proprietor with the portrait of his grandfather, an earlier ambassador to China, to the young porter studying his english language book during the quiet moments but quick with the traditional greeting of namaste and a bright white smile. We celebrated the owner's two little pug dogs adorned with jackets and orange garlands. They seemed especially happy today.

First stop - Himalayas

We're on our way to Kathmandu, and then starting this weekend, the Annapurna Circuit. The circuit is a classic "teahouse trek" with rustic lodges to stay along the entire route in the Himalayas of north-central Nepal. Circling 8,000 meter peaks, the 3-week trek goes counter-clockwise from Besisahar to Nayapul reaching its high point at 17,769 feet at Thorung La pass, one of the highest trekking passes in the world. The trek passes Buddhist villages and Hindu holy sites. Toward the end of the circuit, we will cut over to the trail to Annapurna Base Camp (aka Annapurna Sanctuary) which adds about a week before heading to Pokhara, the third largest city in Nepal.

Lake Union Park, new in Seattle

6.2 mile marine life trek around Lake Union crossing University Bridge and Fremont Bridge.

Granite Mountain

3,800 ft ascent to high meadows and black bears feeding on huckleberries. Just outside of Seattle off I-90. View is from fire lookout on top looking NE.

Lake Ann from Maple Pass Loop

Immerse in wildflowers and ridges with expansive views in the alps of Washington. Hike the loop clockwise for a relatively steep 2,000 ft up, then a more moderate descent overlooking Lake Ann. To get there, take Rainy Pass exit (S) off Hi-20. As you approach the trailhead sign, go left (E) down the flat trail. Shortly, look for the Maple Pass trail on your right that quickly ascends. 

Powering Seattle - Diablo Dam

Blue Glacier at Mt Olympus

You know when you've hit the trail terminus. That is when you approach a final ridge to discover that all that remains is pure glacier. The Blue Glacier snakes under and around Mt Olympus, in the very heart of Olympic National Park. The only other hiker that day was Mike, a volunteer carrying a heavy pack containing among other things a large coffee with nails to repair a tin research hut on the other side of the glacier.

Chipmunk Poses on Nurse Log

This chipmunk is as happy as we are that it's dry and sunny in the Hoh rain forest.

Hoh River Campfire on the Sandbar

There are still a few remote places where campfires without pre-existing metal fire rings are allowed. One such place is on the sandbar several miles into the Hoh River rain forest. Of course, the rangers want you to practice safe fire care and use existing rocks instead of creating more sooty ones. How nice to have an authentic fire crackling with your dinner while the Hoh River, with its icy glacial waters goes roaring by.

No More Pumping - SteriPen Tryout on NW Coast

The UV-based technology of the SteriPen works great for relatively clear water purification. One to two minutes of stirring is all you need for immediate results. Drawback is: it's expensive and heavy with lithium batteries needing replacement every few days for two hikers' daily water supplies in moderate temperatures.

It sure is nice though filling your water bottle up with the trickle of fresh water coming down from the hillsides and logjams behind the beach. A wave of the magic wand and the water tastes
great.

Bright Angel Trail completing loop back to South Rim

It's April (to beat the heat.) For the last two miles, the trail climbed into a snowy wonderland amidst the red rock of the canyon.

Loop Trip to Colorado River from South Rim, Grand Canyon

To start the hike from the 7,000 ft South Rim, Dan is on his way down the stable but steep South Kaibab trail to the Bright Angel Campground, next to the Colorado River. The descent  traverses through rock layers revealing some of the planet's oldest rock. And it's unrelenting, losing 4,600 ft in 6.5 miles from the South Rim. Camp is quickly set up with a lightweight backpacker's Marmot Nutshell tent in the reserved campground. We camp two nights. The next day is for exploring the historic Phantom Ranch lodge nearby, the North Rim trail going up the other side of the canyon, and the loop hike around the two river bridges. Day three is an early start to beat the heat, especially at the base of the canyon. The Bright Angel Trail completes the loop with a 9.6 mile journey climbing 4,380 ft to the top of the South Rim.

http://www.hitthetrail.com/phantom/index.php