Final Stretch to North Sea

Twenty miles of walking before our hats float on the North Sea. And the geography is still surprisingly varied. Traveled next to the River Esk passing through the quaint old village of Grosmont with its steam train ready to take passengers to seaside Whitby. Climbed back up to the moorland eventually losing the faint trail amongst vacant grouse- shooting blinds. After pulling out the map and compass we figured out where to go directionally but a kind sheep farmer in his Land Rover also saw us and came over to point out the exact trail, almost impossible to see in the heather. Traversed down to Little Beck where the trusty sausage sandwiches were pulled out only to be joined nearby by about ten other hikers, like the lunch bell rang or something. Back to a riverside trail eventually coming to the most beautiful waterfall in a wooded grove, straight out of a fairy tail. The water dropped straight down from an overhang some thirty feet into a dark pool. Climbed from the woods back to pastureland and eventually reached our farm for the night, just four miles short of Robin Hood's Bay. The final walk this morning was a hop, skip and a jump. No wind and calm sea made for a pleasant stroll down the coastal trail above the cliffs. Remembered the 40+mph winds at the start of the walk which blew us into the Lake District, and the full breadth of the Coast-to-Coast walk began to sink in. In no time we were at Robin Hood's Bay dipping boots in the water, and ceremoniously tossing the rock picked up in the Irish Sea at the start into the North Sea. The most famous ceremony of all were the pints at Wainwright's bar, steps from the sea. Alfred Wainwright("AW") was afterall the inventor of the Walk, piecing together many trails into one contiguous 190-mile journey right through the heart of the English countryside. Thank you, AW!

The North York Moors

We entered our third and final national park - the North York Moors. Leaving the hostel under grey skies, climbed almost immediately on flagstone paths up the moors to panoramic cliff top views over northeast England. The countryside below is a quiltwork of pastures and forest. On either side of the trail lies fields of purple heather covering the moor in every direction. Flying up with a loud flapping of wings, the colorful grouse nest in the heather within the largest continuous moorland in England. As we peel off the miles, stone paths make the undulating trail relatively easy and delightful going. Such a switch from the Lake District where the trails were so deep with mud. Found a faint side trail to shorten our day by a mile leading off the moors down to the village of Great Broughton and the Ingle Hill B&B. Arriving around 5pm we were warmly greeted, and served tea and homemade cakes beside a beautiful garden with beds of brightly colored flowers. After eating 3 different cakes we managed to share a light dinner at the Jet Miners Inn nearby. Awoke to a sumptuous breakfast and after a fond farewell, proceeded back up to the moors for an easy 10 miles today to the Feversham Arms Inn in the Farndale valley. Made good time on flat paths and a disused railway bed built in 1860 to transport iron ore from the mines nearby. To save a few miles, took a variant trail leading directly down to Farndale with some exciting moments finding our way down past a cliff, then thru pastures and forests, over walls and locked gates. Relieved to finally reach the valley floor and the road, our relief turned to elation to discover our inn was only 50 yards further on. Having the afternoon at this cozy inn off the beaten track, we took full advantage to relax in the room. At 9pm one coast to coast guest had failed to show up and the inn keeper contacted the search and rescue folks. The mood in the pub was concern. Fortunately the guest arrived a short time later extremely relieved to have found the inn in the dark without a flashlight. He'd gotten lost in the moors that morning and had walked in a big circle for over 2 hours. After taking ribbing from the pub patrons about why his compass did not work, he ended up buying everyone a drink! Low overcast introduced a new day and after another english breakfast we were off for a 12 mile walk to Egton Bridge across the moorland. After some rain, the sun came out at lunch and the valley scenery below us was beautiful catching a glimpse of the North Sea in the far distance. Later in the forest beside the River Esk, chatted with a gentleman (straight from the Orvis fisherman's catalogue) on the opposite bank who caught a 16 pound salmon the day before. Finally reached the riverside Horseshoe Hotel by tea time. With just 1.5 more days walking, we should finally reach Robin Hoods Bay. Plenty of miles still to do but can't help but notice the eastern horizon sky looking bright awash with light reflecting off the North Sea.

Coast to Coasters

The quaint riverside location of the stone Keld Bunkhouse was outdone only by the hospitality of its proprietor serving homemade beef stew, chips, and a killer bacon and egg baguette for breakfast. We have entered the Yorkshire Dales, our second national park, and every bit as pretty as the lake district helped a bit by the dry weather. Awoke to a blue sky with a hint of fall crispness in the air. Rambled along side the River Swale all day passing thru gate after gate in stone walls separating verdant green pastures. This was a relaxing 11 miles with beautiful scenery, easy paths and warm sunshine. Stopped at picnic table outside a pub in Gunnerside village to eat lunch. Feeling relaxed and unhurried in the sunshine, CB ran inside to get a diet coke and returned with an ice cold pint of beer - and that kicked this lunch up a notch! We still had all afternoon to walk but CB explained that the bartender assured her that this brand was a lighter beer, excellent for walking. Arrived in Reeth with 10 minutes to spare before catching the bus for the ride to Richmond where we planned to take a rest day to explore its castle. Awoke in Richmond to blue sky, again, pinching ourselves on how wonderful the change in weather felt. We discovered a restored 300 year old Georgian theatre and decided to get tickets to the performance of two modern short plays. Also toured the tiny theatre and learned the nitty gritty on what the theatre experience was like for audiences and actors circa 1748. Ate lunch of our sausage sandwiches (from breakfast) on the Richmond castle grounds and climbed up its tower for spectacular views of the town and surrounding valley. Built around the 11th century after the Norman Conquest, it features advanced castle architecture thanks to the French stone masons brought over the channel to build it. Awoke (once again!) to sunshine and departed the Buck Hotel to proceed 12 miles down the coast to coast trail to the Lovesome Hill Farm Bunk Barn. Leaving the Yorkshire Dales we now spend a couple of days in mostly farm land where the trail often follows field paths and country lanes. The terrain is flat and we make easy 12 mile days enroute to the North York Moors, our third national park of the coast to coast trail. Our identity in England, at least by locals we pass by, is evidently as Coast to Coasters. Many will say something like "You're Coast to Coasters are you?" And sometimes this conversation leads to recollections of their own C2C trip in earlier years. There are many long distance trails in England but this one is definitely the grand daddy in terms of stature and national prominence. The Lovesome Farm Bunkhouse is remote, no food or pubs nearby, so we decided to dine in on pack scraps, and enjoyed a scotch with trail mix, sardines and warmed cheddar on rye krisp, followed by cookies and a Snickers bar. It was delicious, especially the scotch. Leaving the bunkhouse at Lovesome Farm, our rain gear is back. The threatening sky has returned. Today's destination is the Youth Hostel outside the quaint village of Osmotherly. We have about 11 mostly flat miles to walk and the weather keeps our pace brisk. The hostel doesn't open until 5pm and having arrived early afternoon, we enjoyed coffee and cheesecake in the Queen Catherine Hotel & Free House with lots of walkers singing songs inside, warm and safe from the light rainshowers outside.