Mediterranean-bound: Last Day on GR5

The roosters began crowing 30 minutes into the trail on this final day of our long journey from Lake Geneva. Mist was rising from the valley, the sun above Sospel was already starting to smolder but it was fortunately still behind the mountain. We had two concerns about the day's hike: heat and lightning on ridgetops, hence the early start. What was billed as "a thrilling descent" (5000' total) to the Mediterranean was actually more climbing (3840' up, but who's counting?) Up through dark gorges we traipsed, into humid woods, up and down again to eventually climb the shoulder of Le Grand Mont, towering above the Riviera and its harbours below. Billowy white clouds continued to build from all directions. Hugging the Italian border, we finally reached the top and saw, through passing clouds, large yachts moored 3700' directly below us. A tasty ham and cheese baguette for lunch which ds somehow produced even though shops were closed Sunday, the day before.

The trail descended steeply in stony and slippery switchbacks wreaking havoc on our knees but enabling steady progress down. Did not see a single other hiker on the remote trail the entire day. Two Swiss girls and a French guy we met a few days ago, also finishing the GR5/52, were one day ahead of us due to the extra night off-route. After the long hot, humid descent, we wound our way through charming villas of the Cote d'Azur and arrived at asmall sandy beach to find a pet sheep with a Nike logo emblazoned on its wooly flank. What planet is this? Mountaineers' boots touched the sea. We ripped off our well worn hiking clothes, replacing them with swimsuits for the dreamy Med. The old town of Menton, like a painting with tightly spaced ochre-colored houses cascading toward the sea, was beginning to get a dusk glow.

Refuge de Nice Is "Nice"

Set beside a bright blue lake and surrounded by a cirque of steep rocky peaks, Refuge de Nice offers one additional unique benefit: it's brand new! What a nice break from old scratchy blankets. Refuge Nice gave a look and feel like you'd expect at a 4-star mountain lodge at Aspen. We entered Parc National du Mercantour where steep and rocky mountains are flanked by slopes of huge boulders and an unusual amount of summer snow. A one hour drive down valley would put you on the beach at Menton, yet our surroundings amidst jagged peaks make you think John Muir Trail in high Sierra.

From Refuge Nice, our ascent over the 8800' Baisse du Basti pass was steep with lots of sunshine. Midway up CB, spotted "climbers crossing snowfields" high up the ridge above our position, and after closer inspection, we decided they were actually (gulp) on our trail.
The Park abounds with wildlife and we've been fortunate to see elusive bouquetin, and more social chamois up close. Saw 6 chamois in middle of steep snowfield very high up, moving about rapidly. Their charging down slope with impromptu glisades, tumbles, and high speed triple backward summersaults, had you thinking danger, wolves must be after them. But as we climbed closer it was clear they were just playing.
Earlier, we made our way from Madone de Fenestre, a CAF hut next to a pilgrimage church to Refuge de Nice, and then to old style Refuge de Valmasque, where the rain finally caught up with us after six hours of walking. A welcome sight, Valmasque was beautifully situated with a commanding view towards 3 picturesque lakes.
After several internet attempts, we never did get any reservations at some of the huts. So in a marathon day we hiked to Refuge des Merveilles anyway in order to view some petroglyph drawings on flat turquoise and orange shale boulders. We saw beautiful rock boulders scattered everywhere exposing clues to inhabitants up to four thousand years ago.
Then we headed down a side valley several thousand feet to a road leading to a town with rail service to Sospel. We understood there was bus service at the road to take us down the final 2000' to the rail station, but arriving with 15 minutes to spare, couldn't find a bus stop anywhere except a sole kiosk with a phone labeled SOS(!) Fortunately a local man appeared and revealed the correct spot to wait, sparing us another 2 hour walk down the road. Even having made the bus transfer, we just made the last train to Sospel where we quickly found a hotel, and headed out for a biere formidable (large beer), late pizza and green salad.