Our train arrived on schedule at Landry, the northern edge of Savoie region a few km from Vanoise Natl Park. The park originally started as a large game reserve for high altitude inhabitants of its rocky terrain such as ibex, chamois and marmot. Our first hut, Refuge Entre Lac, was 2k ft above the park entrance as the trail climbed past treeline to reach a remote aquamarine lake. Our French language skills are sketchy at best but Dan lived in France for a summer as a teenager and has a respectable accent. My French conversation class in college is only useful for ordering from a menu and to ensure we switch to English as fast as possible. It helps being in the mountains where one's needs are expressed simply: FOOD and SHELTER! (Actually, demi-pension will get you bunk, dinner and breakfast). Three men looking like mountain climbers ran the hut, a stone farmhouse next to a glacial stream. I don't know how they get supplies because there's no road but they sure made a fantastic creamy vegetable soup and beef stew with fried polenta. It was amusing to watch one of the mountain climbers with blond rastafarian braids and scruffy beard (pictured) lure the cow grazing in front of us over for milking. That's when I was truly thankful for the hot chocolate, yogurt with berries, and steamed milk. Later that evening I saw the same hut warden take off for a mountain run. Only a few other hikers tonight: a couple from Paris doing a trek around the main glaciers, a British man also doing the GR5, and two girls with heavy camping backpacks. Our distances increased over the next three days basically walking all day even though the guidebook said only 4-6 hours of walking on each day! We sped up due to an approaching weather system and reached the 8000' Refuge du Col de Vanoise ahead of schedule. We finally reached this magical mountainous setting after a steep climb above the river. As the terrain leveled out in the short valley above, we did not spot an ibex but did spot a nude sunbather next to one of the glacial lakes. It was a hot afternoon because at the same time I was applying moleskin and bandaids to my blistered heels. Snoring in the dortoir otherwise great hut. (Broke out the earplugs.) Rain arrived the next day but we proceeded down the next valley through Pralognan. Woke at Refuge de Roc de Peche with rain and sleet, and snow blanketing the ridges above us. Now the 9k ft high pass we intend to cross tomorrow (Col de Chaviere) is covered with snow and ice, impassable with only hiking gear and freezing temps today. Forecast calls for sun coming back later tomorrow which will quickly melt any precarious conditions on the steep sections and clear the way south! Holed up for now, lucky for private room and hot shower.
18 July 2009
How do you say "how do you say?"?
Our train arrived on schedule at Landry, the northern edge of Savoie region a few km from Vanoise Natl Park. The park originally started as a large game reserve for high altitude inhabitants of its rocky terrain such as ibex, chamois and marmot. Our first hut, Refuge Entre Lac, was 2k ft above the park entrance as the trail climbed past treeline to reach a remote aquamarine lake. Our French language skills are sketchy at best but Dan lived in France for a summer as a teenager and has a respectable accent. My French conversation class in college is only useful for ordering from a menu and to ensure we switch to English as fast as possible. It helps being in the mountains where one's needs are expressed simply: FOOD and SHELTER! (Actually, demi-pension will get you bunk, dinner and breakfast). Three men looking like mountain climbers ran the hut, a stone farmhouse next to a glacial stream. I don't know how they get supplies because there's no road but they sure made a fantastic creamy vegetable soup and beef stew with fried polenta. It was amusing to watch one of the mountain climbers with blond rastafarian braids and scruffy beard (pictured) lure the cow grazing in front of us over for milking. That's when I was truly thankful for the hot chocolate, yogurt with berries, and steamed milk. Later that evening I saw the same hut warden take off for a mountain run. Only a few other hikers tonight: a couple from Paris doing a trek around the main glaciers, a British man also doing the GR5, and two girls with heavy camping backpacks. Our distances increased over the next three days basically walking all day even though the guidebook said only 4-6 hours of walking on each day! We sped up due to an approaching weather system and reached the 8000' Refuge du Col de Vanoise ahead of schedule. We finally reached this magical mountainous setting after a steep climb above the river. As the terrain leveled out in the short valley above, we did not spot an ibex but did spot a nude sunbather next to one of the glacial lakes. It was a hot afternoon because at the same time I was applying moleskin and bandaids to my blistered heels. Snoring in the dortoir otherwise great hut. (Broke out the earplugs.) Rain arrived the next day but we proceeded down the next valley through Pralognan. Woke at Refuge de Roc de Peche with rain and sleet, and snow blanketing the ridges above us. Now the 9k ft high pass we intend to cross tomorrow (Col de Chaviere) is covered with snow and ice, impassable with only hiking gear and freezing temps today. Forecast calls for sun coming back later tomorrow which will quickly melt any precarious conditions on the steep sections and clear the way south! Holed up for now, lucky for private room and hot shower.
12 July 2009
Pre-trek prep: Cap D'Antibes
A one hour and one euro bus ride took us directly from Nice Intl airport to Antibes. Another short bus ride and we're at Cap D'Antibes at the tip of the peninsula. It is a short walk to the Mediterranean (Plage des Ondes) with an excellent swimming beach, snorkeling, and to our surprise a 2-hour coastal walk meandering past the vacation estates frequented over the years from Charlie Chaplin to the Kennedy's. The stone path hugs the rocky shoreline with racing sailboats and yachts motoring by and views up to the Maritime Alps, our final segment of the GR5 a month from now. After 4 days here we are rested and relaxed. (Too relaxed??) The reintroduction to France has been marvelous from cafe au lait with croissants, to salade nicoise and fresh fish, not to mention the baguettes. It is definitely time to start walking!
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