We entered our third and final national park - the North York Moors. Leaving the hostel under grey skies, climbed almost immediately on flagstone paths up the moors to panoramic cliff top views over northeast England. The countryside below is a quiltwork of pastures and forest. On either side of the trail lies fields of purple heather covering the moor in every direction. Flying up with a loud flapping of wings, the colorful grouse nest in the heather within the largest continuous moorland in England. As we peel off the miles, stone paths make the undulating trail relatively easy and delightful going. Such a switch from the Lake District where the trails were so deep with mud. Found a faint side trail to shorten our day by a mile leading off the moors down to the village of Great Broughton and the Ingle Hill B&B. Arriving around 5pm we were warmly greeted, and served tea and homemade cakes beside a beautiful garden with beds of brightly colored flowers. After eating 3 different cakes we managed to share a light dinner at the Jet Miners Inn nearby. Awoke to a sumptuous breakfast and after a fond farewell, proceeded back up to the moors for an easy 10 miles today to the Feversham Arms Inn in the Farndale valley. Made good time on flat paths and a disused railway bed built in 1860 to transport iron ore from the mines nearby. To save a few miles, took a variant trail leading directly down to Farndale with some exciting moments finding our way down past a cliff, then thru pastures and forests, over walls and locked gates. Relieved to finally reach the valley floor and the road, our relief turned to elation to discover our inn was only 50 yards further on. Having the afternoon at this cozy inn off the beaten track, we took full advantage to relax in the room. At 9pm one coast to coast guest had failed to show up and the inn keeper contacted the search and rescue folks. The mood in the pub was concern. Fortunately the guest arrived a short time later extremely relieved to have found the inn in the dark without a flashlight. He'd gotten lost in the moors that morning and had walked in a big circle for over 2 hours. After taking ribbing from the pub patrons about why his compass did not work, he ended up buying everyone a drink! Low overcast introduced a new day and after another english breakfast we were off for a 12 mile walk to Egton Bridge across the moorland. After some rain, the sun came out at lunch and the valley scenery below us was beautiful catching a glimpse of the North Sea in the far distance. Later in the forest beside the River Esk, chatted with a gentleman (straight from the Orvis fisherman's catalogue) on the opposite bank who caught a 16 pound salmon the day before. Finally reached the riverside Horseshoe Hotel by tea time. With just 1.5 more days walking, we should finally reach Robin Hoods Bay. Plenty of miles still to do but can't help but notice the eastern horizon sky looking bright awash with light reflecting off the North Sea.
17 September 2009
The North York Moors
We entered our third and final national park - the North York Moors. Leaving the hostel under grey skies, climbed almost immediately on flagstone paths up the moors to panoramic cliff top views over northeast England. The countryside below is a quiltwork of pastures and forest. On either side of the trail lies fields of purple heather covering the moor in every direction. Flying up with a loud flapping of wings, the colorful grouse nest in the heather within the largest continuous moorland in England. As we peel off the miles, stone paths make the undulating trail relatively easy and delightful going. Such a switch from the Lake District where the trails were so deep with mud. Found a faint side trail to shorten our day by a mile leading off the moors down to the village of Great Broughton and the Ingle Hill B&B. Arriving around 5pm we were warmly greeted, and served tea and homemade cakes beside a beautiful garden with beds of brightly colored flowers. After eating 3 different cakes we managed to share a light dinner at the Jet Miners Inn nearby. Awoke to a sumptuous breakfast and after a fond farewell, proceeded back up to the moors for an easy 10 miles today to the Feversham Arms Inn in the Farndale valley. Made good time on flat paths and a disused railway bed built in 1860 to transport iron ore from the mines nearby. To save a few miles, took a variant trail leading directly down to Farndale with some exciting moments finding our way down past a cliff, then thru pastures and forests, over walls and locked gates. Relieved to finally reach the valley floor and the road, our relief turned to elation to discover our inn was only 50 yards further on. Having the afternoon at this cozy inn off the beaten track, we took full advantage to relax in the room. At 9pm one coast to coast guest had failed to show up and the inn keeper contacted the search and rescue folks. The mood in the pub was concern. Fortunately the guest arrived a short time later extremely relieved to have found the inn in the dark without a flashlight. He'd gotten lost in the moors that morning and had walked in a big circle for over 2 hours. After taking ribbing from the pub patrons about why his compass did not work, he ended up buying everyone a drink! Low overcast introduced a new day and after another english breakfast we were off for a 12 mile walk to Egton Bridge across the moorland. After some rain, the sun came out at lunch and the valley scenery below us was beautiful catching a glimpse of the North Sea in the far distance. Later in the forest beside the River Esk, chatted with a gentleman (straight from the Orvis fisherman's catalogue) on the opposite bank who caught a 16 pound salmon the day before. Finally reached the riverside Horseshoe Hotel by tea time. With just 1.5 more days walking, we should finally reach Robin Hoods Bay. Plenty of miles still to do but can't help but notice the eastern horizon sky looking bright awash with light reflecting off the North Sea.
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