Set beside a bright blue lake and surrounded by a cirque of steep rocky peaks, Refuge de Nice offers one additional unique benefit: it's brand new! What a nice break from old scratchy blankets. Refuge Nice gave a look and feel like you'd expect at a 4-star mountain lodge at Aspen. We entered Parc National du Mercantour where steep and rocky mountains are flanked by slopes of huge boulders and an unusual amount of summer snow. A one hour drive down valley would put you on the beach at Menton, yet our surroundings amidst jagged peaks make you think John Muir Trail in high Sierra.From Refuge Nice, our ascent over the 8800' Baisse du Basti pass was steep with lots of sunshine. Midway up CB, spotted "climbers crossing snowfields" high up the ridge above our position, and after closer inspection, we decided they were actually (gulp) on our trail.
The Park abounds with wildlife and we've been fortunate to see elusive bouquetin, and more social chamois up close. Saw 6 chamois in middle of steep snowfield very high up, moving about rapidly. Their charging down slope with impromptu glisades, tumbles, and high speed triple backward summersaults, had you thinking danger, wolves must be after them. But as we climbed closer it was clear they were just playing.
Earlier, we made our way from Madone de Fenestre, a CAF hut next to a pilgrimage church to Refuge de Nice, and then to old style Refuge de Valmasque, where the rain finally caught up with us after six hours of walking. A welcome sight, Valmasque was beautifully situated with a commanding view towards 3 picturesque lakes.
After several internet attempts, we never did get any reservations at some of the huts. So in a marathon day we hiked to Refuge des Merveilles anyway in order to view some petroglyph drawings on flat turquoise and orange shale boulders. We saw beautiful rock boulders scattered everywhere exposing clues to inhabitants up to four thousand years ago.
Then we headed down a side valley several thousand feet to a road leading to a town with rail service to Sospel. We understood there was bus service at the road to take us down the final 2000' to the rail station, but arriving with 15 minutes to spare, couldn't find a bus stop anywhere except a sole kiosk with a phone labeled SOS(!) Fortunately a local man appeared and revealed the correct spot to wait, sparing us another 2 hour walk down the road. Even having made the bus transfer, we just made the last train to Sospel where we quickly found a hotel, and headed out for a biere formidable (large beer), late pizza and green salad.
The Park abounds with wildlife and we've been fortunate to see elusive bouquetin, and more social chamois up close. Saw 6 chamois in middle of steep snowfield very high up, moving about rapidly. Their charging down slope with impromptu glisades, tumbles, and high speed triple backward summersaults, had you thinking danger, wolves must be after them. But as we climbed closer it was clear they were just playing.
Earlier, we made our way from Madone de Fenestre, a CAF hut next to a pilgrimage church to Refuge de Nice, and then to old style Refuge de Valmasque, where the rain finally caught up with us after six hours of walking. A welcome sight, Valmasque was beautifully situated with a commanding view towards 3 picturesque lakes.
After several internet attempts, we never did get any reservations at some of the huts. So in a marathon day we hiked to Refuge des Merveilles anyway in order to view some petroglyph drawings on flat turquoise and orange shale boulders. We saw beautiful rock boulders scattered everywhere exposing clues to inhabitants up to four thousand years ago.
Then we headed down a side valley several thousand feet to a road leading to a town with rail service to Sospel. We understood there was bus service at the road to take us down the final 2000' to the rail station, but arriving with 15 minutes to spare, couldn't find a bus stop anywhere except a sole kiosk with a phone labeled SOS(!) Fortunately a local man appeared and revealed the correct spot to wait, sparing us another 2 hour walk down the road. Even having made the bus transfer, we just made the last train to Sospel where we quickly found a hotel, and headed out for a biere formidable (large beer), late pizza and green salad.
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