The roosters began crowing 30 minutes into the trail on this final day of our long journey from Lake Geneva. Mist was rising from the valley, the sun above Sospel was already starting to smolder but it was fortunately still behind the mountain. We had two concerns about the day's hike: heat and lightning on ridgetops, hence the early start. What was billed as "a thrilling descent" (5000' total) to the Mediterranean was actually more climbing (3840' up, but who's counting?) Up through dark gorges we traipsed, into humid woods, up and down again to eventually climb the shoulder of Le Grand Mont, towering above the Riviera and its harbours below. Billowy white clouds continued to build from all directions. Hugging the Italian border, we finally reached the top and saw, through passing clouds, large yachts moored 3700' directly below us. A tasty ham and cheese baguette for lunch which ds somehow produced even though shops were closed Sunday, the day before.The trail descended steeply in stony and slippery switchbacks wreaking havoc on our knees but enabling steady progress down. Did not see a single other hiker on the remote trail the entire day. Two Swiss girls and a French guy we met a few days ago, also finishing the GR5/52, were one day ahead of us due to the extra night off-route. After the long hot, humid descent, we wound our way through charming villas of the Cote d'Azur and arrived at asmall sandy beach to find a pet sheep with a Nike logo emblazoned on its wooly flank. What planet is this? Mountaineers' boots touched the sea. We ripped off our well worn hiking clothes, replacing them with swimsuits for the dreamy Med. The old town of Menton, like a painting with tightly spaced ochre-colored houses cascading toward the sea, was beginning to get a dusk glow.
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